So, it’s not like we do it often. But it sometimes happen. Hooking the line on a branch, stone or root at the start place. It can happen to everyone.  And the line sometimes allows and rupture, it is not steel … But the holiday just started and the situation needs to be solved. How to do it?

REPLY

Ideal solution. You will replace a broken one with a new one. Remove the old one and put the new one. It’s a simple system of foxholes and the need is just a pair of pliers to allow the harness on the straps. But most likely, you do not have all the spare line to your glider (all lengths and thicknesses, about 300 m in total, it would be a nice ball). So you have about one – two thick long lines in the lower gallery and a few thin ones in the upper gallery. Such replacements are ideally stitched at one end and the other end free – there you have to finish and set the length with a suitable knot.

TIE DOWN
Just a line to tie the knot is not going to be a very good solution because you would shorten it enough and the paraglide  would not fly straight. But if you do not have a long cord to replace the full length, you can replace that shorter broken end of line and leave a reserve for it on the knot.

LET IT BE

If you already fly and you look up and see the ruptured line . Probably in the upper gallery of drivers or rear row (C, D) lines. It was probably at the start when the line caught behind the stone or root and ruptured. If you’ve noticed it during the flight, it’s probably a negligible influence on the glider management and you can ignore it until the end of this holiday. Surely, do not interrupt a well-flown flight, this will not be the cause of some misfortune.

HOW TO DO IT

The lines are joined together with the eyelets on the canopy by the The Lark’s Head Knot.  That’s simple: push your eyelid through the eye, then pull through the other end and pull and pull until you tighten. At the other end, the eyelid simply puts a snap on the harness on the strap. So if you want to replace a string, you need to break this chain from below. That’s the carabiner. Unscrew, unpack, untie the bottom lace, untie the middle gallery lines, and then get to the top gallery where you can only untie the line from the eyelet on the canopy. Draw a new one – move the other way, that is, from the canopy – two or more of the top gallery lines converge and tie them together with one drawer of the lower gallery. Once again, two or more of them are tied down with the lower line. In addition to driving, fortunately, there are only one or two branching (galleries), but it is quite a challenge to confess and not to mute it. Put the lines in a snug fit in the snap hook and tighten it so that it does not allow, but not completely “on the blood”.

KNOTS – HOW TO USE IT

The Lark’s Head Knot, as described above, will only serve you with stitched eyelids.Two free ends are best recommended to bind the double The Fisherman’s Knot. It’s a bit more complicated, but strong enough to hold even without other bulky insurance junctions.

The line that I have a free end where I need an eye is attached to the opposite eye by a combination of Lark’s Head Knot and Fisherman’s Knot as shown.

In the last two cases, you must set the correct line length. By matching it with the same line on the other side of the glider (mirror-like).

IS IT SAFE?

Suppose that we are holding by 7 strong lines on each side. Their capacity is 130 kg. The stitched eyelet weakens the strength at least, perhaps by 5%, with a bit of strength losing the knot – where they are crossed with the upper gallery. By subtracting and multiplying it all, we are going to get much more than the standard required by 8 G. Let’s say I have a TOW of 100 kg. So I need the lines to carry 200 kg of steady sliding flight. Divided 14, we have about 14.3 kg per line. Lots of 5 G, which I can actually achieve in a sharp spiral = 70 kg. So on a new strong string I can afford one knot o do (knot reduces its strength to about 55% of the original strength). And I will not do a spiral with him. This trip I can fly with this solution and as soon as I order a new cord to the manufacturer and at home I will immediately exchange it.

DO YOU HAVE A CORRECT SIZE? 

Certainly you’ve solved it when you buy your harness.  But just then you need to know what and how to set up and watch when you try your harness.

You have the right size when:
– the seat supports your thigh so that you do not feel that you are slipping from the harness any time, or that you are sitting “just half the buttocks” but do not press in the knee under the knee (this would curtail the blood circulation)
– the thighs do not press the straps (too narrow) when you control by tilts the direction of flight
– do not drive your butt from left to right (too wide),
– lean back straight and tighten shoulder straps properly, your back does not press your back (too big) Even a few centimeters under the seventh cervical vertebra (tangible to visible bumps where the back passes in the neck).

HOW TO PROCEED 

Dress your harness, turn on the buckles and hook it into the trainer. Start loose your shoulder straps and let them go a little bit. First, adjust the slope of the back. The harness has adjustable straps that support the back of the harness in the waist area. You choose to position them either more upright or more inclined as you like. Then tighten your shoulder straps so that you feel that your back is evenly supported, neither rounded nor curved. Some harnesses also have adjustable seat inclination. Now fine. So that you do not slip out of your seat, but not push your forehead and do not force your tendons and blood vessels on the back of your thighs above your knees. Test your settings by mimicking a rag. When you release all the muscles, you should not slip or break in the seat; The harness should hold you in the original position. It happens that you keep your harness in the chair unconsciously with tension in your muscles and you attract your knees to your body or your belly muscles, hold the hip in the upright position. This happens inconspicuously, but after a few minutes it can lead to pain, cramping up to “unexplained” nausea. If this happens, try reconfiguring your harness settings.

SUPPORT – RELAX-BAR – COCOON – SPEED-BAG? 

If the seat has a footrest, either open or with a leg guard, you will need to proceed more comprehensively when setting up. Any change in the back settings will need to be adjusted in leg settings and vice versa. The restraint is to keep your feet in a relaxed position (hence the name of the relax-bar), as well as the cocoon – in addition to wind protection and aerodynamic improvement. So you’re trying to combine the settings of the straps, buckles or knots to find a position where you do not have to hold your chosen position with the stretched muscles, as we mentioned above. For the speed-bag to perform its aerodynamic function, it should be set at the ideal angle. It deals with a number of other articles, but they can be summed up as follows: The surface of the top of the cocoon should wedge with the horizon the same angle as the angle of sliding. Or else: The horizon of the speed-bag top should be parallel to the direction of the air on the glider (ie the seat). So be careful with the super racing harness because too much comfort can be detrimental for your performance.

HOW I FEEL?

Harnesses are designed by people. They have their own ideas, priorities and intentions. These can be different from yours, plus their leaders, investors and marketers have their priorities as well. Materials, technology, machines and seamstresses have their limits. So sit in the chair for at least an hour – just rest on a simulator in a flight-park with a beer or a book in hand. And after that hour you are sure you can hold it for another hour or more, you have your favorite. If you can not get into the seat after long trials, it’s probably not your size or another model will suit you.

We wish you a pleasant seating!

To get the full potential of your glider and fly efficiently, you need to use the speed at the right time and in the right places. To use the speed effectively, it must be set up correctly. This means the length of the string from the hook to the hook / snap hook on both sides should be such as to allow you to conveniently use 100% of the speed and all the positions from zero to that value. Since we have different characters and have different models of gliders and harnesses, it is clear that there is no universal setup and we all need to set our speed at our glider for ourselves.

From the above, you will need to attach a glider when setting the speed to the harness. You will be able to use at least one helper and a hanged trainer, but it goes without it as well. Sit in a harness with attached glider and speed. On the ground (without a trainer), try to get as much as you can in flight (rear back at the end of the plate, back resting). The helper holds the cords or straps up in a position as if you were flying. It needs to practice the grip so that it can hold the rear straps firmly and release, but do not let the front straps as you step into the speed. That’s why the two helpers are ideal ? Put your feet on the speed bar and pull them out. Ideally, in the position with their legs extended on the last (hard) speed rail, they have just met the speed-system pulleys on the paraglider straps. If the rollers meet and your legs are not tightened, the cords are too short. If you have stretched your legs and the pulleys have not yet touched, the lines are long. Moving the knots on the hooks on the hook or the rack (depending on the speed design), adjust the length of the string to reach the “stretched leg – pulley” condition.

If you really want to be a detailist, dress up and dress up as you are used to real flying. But probably, when you set the speed on the ground, you will see that it will need to move the junks two to three centimeters further.

This is how you set your speed so you can use its full range. But speed ​​system we mostly use less than full 100%. To do so, there is one or two degrees of speed. You can try experimenting with different types of rails of different lengths and degrees. But because with the speed you need to work continuously as with drivers, you do not have to look for some kind of deep science …

Someone, for example, likes to leave the speed a few centimeters longer because it’s at minimum speed at full speed. And if he really needs him for a while, he’ll stretch his foot toes. And you will surely find your own solution after some time ….

WHERE IS THE RUPTURE?

Sometimes the glider gets stuck about trees, bushes and other obstacles around starters and landings. Occasionally, the canopy will pick up a stone or root on the starter, and a hole will appear there when we inadvertently strike it on the rocky ground and cause more. The vast majority of these situations will definitely not end our summer holidays if we have a sufficient supply of self-adhesive Skytex (or Dokdo, depending on what your paraglider is).

WHAT TO DO WITH THIS?

Put a small hole, 2-3 cm, with a patch, preferably from the inside of the canopy (it will be less visible and less affected by the boundary layer). The patch should ideally be large enough to extend beyond the borehole edges as much as the hole is large. This is the answer to the question that has not been identified so far: How can I make big holes with a patch? It depends on how big a sticker I have available. Larger holes will be patched on the other side (on the outside), so the result will be a bit firmer. If we have a half-meter whole in the canopy, we will not be making meter and a half overlap. There will be an overlap of about 10 cm.

HOW TO DO IT? 

For bonding, we need, besides the patch, a suitable solid surface to stretch the glued part. For small holes, just a palm or knee is enough, an ideal table, bench or padded backpack, etc. And we will need a total of at least four, but rather six hands ? If we want to stick on the inside of the canopy we must first turn the glued part out, That is, Pull it through the filling opening of the chamber. We straighten the glued part on the work surface so that we hold the edges of the hole tightly together, but the fabric is stretched out without wrinkles and wrinkles. In this position, the hands of two assistants are just holding him. From a patch that we measure and cut out with rounded corners, we remove the paper covering the adhesive, but not all of it – at one end we leave it to manipulate the patch without sticking to our fingers. We will focus on the patch on one side and press on the glued surface at one end and then proceed with the gradual smoothing of the finger from one end to the other (gradually remove the glue cover paper) and glue it so tightly without wrinkles and bubbles.

IS IT SAFE?

We have talked about the ruptures in the open material. When the canopy is ruptured along a seam, the patch repair is more complex and the result, especially from the viewpoint of the resulting strength, is rather uncertain. Be aware that the material is being stressed in all directions. During a steady flight, it is only a few decagrams, but in dynamic maneuvers (and not to mention pure acrobatics), or in rapid recovery from collapses it can be multiples of kilograms. Will it keep our glued work? Where there are multiple parts of the fabric at different angles in the seam, the patch bonding is not reasonably feasible. Even if we manage to keep a rupture at least so that the glider is held together and the air does not run out of it with caution, it will be a reasonable solution to send the manufacturer / importer without delay. But do not worry about sticking – where the patch is on a flat surface, then the fabric is stronger and with a much better porosity.

We wish you never had to use this manual

This has already happened to everyone…. tangled lines.

The question is: What should I do when it happens?

For example, you can choose one of these possibilities:

A) looking around and looking for someone to help,

B) call the instructor directly,

C) divide your u work into a longer time refresh yourself, and leave the launch site at sunset,

D) use the combos to loosen the headlamps, dismantle the lines and start looking after the manufacturer’s instructions,

E) looking for Fiskars scissors,

F) gasoline, matches, dark glasses, and walking slowly from a large burning ball.

Well, or read these few lines in this article and maybe you will find some new helpfull recommendationsthat’s different.

As some have once said, every big problem has to be divided into several small and small problems are solved by themselves. So whatever the lines are tangled in any way, try not to solve the big problem at once, but just let it go.

1. First you need to separate the right half of the lines from the left. That should go easy.

2. Then take the strap of one half in your hand and remove the steering line so that you can pin it in place on the back of the rear strap (most commonly strap D). Between the pulley on the strap and the strap on the steering line shall not be any other line than the steering line.

3. Grasp the strap A in one hand. Begin removing the wraparound lines by dragging around the entire strap to release all three corded lines. Proceed from the canopy towards the free ends. Do not worry about which line belongs to, just throw them around the straps so that only the string A lines stay upstairs.

4. When there is only a string in the hand between the leading edge and the A strap in your hand, all the rest of the lines are under them, just strap the straps so that the end bolt on the cap will lead to the edge of the canopy and the other acorns will not be thrown over it lines.

And that’s all. The rest is simple.

Dalibor